Simple landscape improvements to tackle this spring
With the long winter days behind us and the promise of warmer days to come, now is the perfect time to start landscape improvements such as mulching and spring lawn maintenance. Turf damage caused by a tough winter; too much salt, snowplows or tire ruts can be repaired easily at this time.
Start by raking up the damaged grass and any debris that accumulated over the winter. Loosening up the existing soil with a garden rake and adding a thin layer of new soil is the best method to prepare the ground for new seed. Choosing the right seed is where most people get confused. Your local garden retailer will have prepackaged “lawn repair” seed mixes that will blend in with your existing grass. In our area these mixes will include bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fescue seed. The best time to apply seed is when the existing grass starts to green up, usually in mid to late April. Newly seeded areas need to be kept moist until the grass starts to grow, then water less frequently. Do not apply fertilizer or weed control to these areas until all the seed has germinated.
Fertilizing in the spring will help the lawn withstand summer drought stress, weeds and diseases. Spring is when grass is actively growing, which is the best time to apply fertilizer. Again, local garden retailers have fertilizers specially blended for spring application. These fertilizers are typically high in nitrogen, which aids in keeping the grass greener throughout the summer. Follow the application rates that are on the bag and you can’t go wrong.
Crabgrass is a weed grass that doesn’t appear in the lawn until summer but germinates in the spring. Applying a preemergant herbicide in the spring will prevent the crabgrass seeds from germinating. The timing of this application is crucial for effective control. It needs to be applied when crabgrass seeds are germinating which is not easy to determine by looking at the lawn. In our area, crabgrass preventor needs to be applied in late April or early May. If you never had crabgrass in your lawn, you don’t need to apply a preventor. Applying chemicals without just cause is wasting your time and money.
Spring is the best time to apply mulch to landscaped beds and tree rings. Mulch conserves moisture, controls weeds and eventually decomposes, adding nutrients to the soil. To start, remove all dead plant material and leaves from the beds. There should be a defined edge between grass areas and landscaped beds. Starting with a neat, weed free edge in the spring will reduce the amount of time spent on lawn maintenance the rest of the summer. There are many different types of mulch available and all the choices can be overwhelming. The best one for residential properties in our area is a dark hardwood mulch. It has the best consistency, is good for suppressing weeds, and visually mimics our natural soil color. Trees and shrubs should have a three to four inch layer of mulch, while perennial flowers should have only one to two inches. Annual flowerbeds should not be mulched unless you use an extremely fine product, such as cocoa shells, that won’t harm the small, delicate stems. Keep mulch away from the crown (base) of the plants to prevent disease or rot.
Too much mulch can be harmful to the plants. Most beds do not need to be mulched every year. A two to three inch layer is all that is needed to be beneficial to the plants. In the spring, existing mulch can be turned or raked using a garden rake. This process will make the mulch look fresh as well as aid in the decomposition process. Sometimes a yellowish fluffy substance often referred to as “dog vomit fungus” grows in mulch. It is really a slime mold but is harmless to plants and usually goes away within a week.
Spending a little time and a few dollars on your lawn in the spring will make it easier to maintain all summer.
by Jeanne Lombardo |
